Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
